Baku Conference

Participation in a conference at Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, on the theme The South Caucasus in the Changing World in the first week of September 2013 further reaffirmed what I knew and wrote about the region. It was first visit to the city on the Caspian Sea. The visit further reinforced my belief that in the post-cold war era the South Caucasus is a prime location of great power politics and regional conflicts. The conference was organized by the Center for Strategic Studies under the President of Republic of Azerbaijan; hence a stamp of state was visible in conference program and panels, and also in many of the presentations. 

In the morning of the first day of the conference (2 September) we went to Alley of Honor and Alley of Martyrs, a posh and lush area in the heart of the city, to pay respect to heroes. All participants, perhaps about 100, had to pay tribute to the founder of post-Soviet Azerbaijan, Gaider Aliyev with two beautiful thorn-less (as they were removed) roses supplied by the organizers. The cut outs of the founder in various places of the city implied two things: the people loved their leader, and the leader loved the people – at least that was the impression one could come across. 

Baku is a beautiful city, with tall buildings (the famous flame towers are worth mentioning) and clean roads. The affluence generated from the oil money was clearly visible. The night looked like the day as the buildings displayed lights in particular patterns, creating impressions of crystal or flame or people running with flag. The gigantic state flag (somebody informed that was the biggest flag in size in the world) was fluttering on the waters of the Caspian Sea as if cavorting with sky. The flag reminded how nations portray their flags not only as symbols of their pride , but also as something which needs to be displayed and remembered by the people. I could see the medley of color, light, and national pride in the night sky of Baku and the Caspian Sea while having sumptuous dinner in the elite Zeytun restaurant on the shore.

I was staying in the Kempinski hotel, the brand of which preceded the Soviet rule. In the evening of the first day conference we were taken to the Art Garden restaurant, near the famous historical monument of Maiden’s Tower (the 12th century tower, the legend says that the maiden exploited by her father jumped to death from the top of the tower which was then on sea, now receded about 100 meter or so). Participants enjoyed various delicacies – of lamb, steak and many other varieties (in my case I had to satisfy with whatever vegetarian food available). I could find how the participants were immersed in the dances and songs by beautiful girls and handsome boys, arranged by the institute. Particularly I liked the sound of drums played in a particular fashion. The next morning we had to go the newly built diplomatic academy and enjoy hospitality of the organizers.

I found the people of Azerbaijan, particularly as I saw in the city particularly amongst the youth, happy and confident. The secular state was not only brimming with oil money, but it was also imparting to the youth with its new found wealth a sense of pride. I was happy to see the youth taking charge of most of the events. The development in the city was apparent with new constructions here and there. Some speakers presented figures demonstrating that Azerbaijan has moved far ahead of its South Caucasian neighbors – Armenia and Georgia – in terms of per capital income and gross domestic product. That claim at times may appear condescending when some linked new found wealth to the prowess of the country to resolve conflict in the region.

Understandably, the Nagorno-Karabakh (N-K) conflict surfaced on many occasions and some speakers from the country displayed their grievance at the inability of the highest international body the United Nations to resolve the conflict despite the country having the rightful claim to the disputed area. I knew that conflicts of such kind are very sensitive and they arouse deep seated hatred and animosity. One participant reasoned that if Armenia could make peace and leave N-K, then Azerbaijan could help it economically. A sound proposition. I could easily sense the pent up anger and frustration on part of some participants. There was a section of scholars who believed that N-K issue could be resolved by means of force – but I was skeptic at such a proposition in the post-cold war globalized world. The same skepticism could be extended to other conflicts in the region particularly South Ossetia and Abkhazia.

Some arguments portraying Azerbaijan as a center of trade between east and west, and a center of Silk Road trade were well made. These arguments made real sense as the country has not only the potential and dynamism to rise to such an occasion, but the attention it receives from powers – big and small – makes it a right candidate for such a position. It has energy resources; it is located in a challenging/volatile geopolitical fault line, and its people are aware of global affairs and confident enough to shape the destiny of the country – all these combined make Azerbaijan a dynamic country in the South Caucasus. I understood that the conflict needs to be resolved so that the country can pursue its carrier without hindrance, but I believed that can be more feasible by means of dialogue and deliberation. It was rather the great power politics, or what is commonly referred as new great game or new cold war – the geopolitical rivalry between big powers – that has complicated matters for the countries of the region.

I found the people of Azerbaijan affable. The people were confident about the present dispensation and happily informed that the government is transforming oil capital into human capital. I enjoyed the trip, relished Azeri hospitality, learned new things, and interacted with other participants across continents. It was a good experience.